LESSON VII THE LARGE COAT

THE LARGE COATA form in a large coat has the appearance of being somewhat stouter than a form in just a dress, but in realty it is the coat that gives this effect.

Draw the form the same size as for a dress. Place the coat upon it according to previous instructions, but let the coat touch the form on the shoulders, chest, and bust only. Elsewhere it hangs well away from the form, as designated by the guide lines seen through the coat.

As the collar is high, standing well up at the back of the neck, the near side view of the V is a straighter line than the reverse curve in Lesson II, Fig. C. The large collar breaks on the shoulder, but do not bring the break below the shoulder line.

The belt being very wide and standing well away from the form, the curve is somewhat less than a belt which fits the form tightly.

When drawing the near side of the collar to the opening, do not touch the line of the opening, thus g;ving the collar the appearance of being turned over.

For a double-breasted coat, all buttons must be an even distance from the center line and evenly spaced, as shown by the guide lines.

As the coat sets away from the form, the fullness above and below the belt does not cling to it and does not follow the form as in Lesson V, Fig. P, but hangs straight up and down, the fullness above and below the belt being on a line.

The bottom of a coat should be drawn
the same as the bottom of a dress. Be careful to make the opening at X prominent.

Study the separate belt at the bottom of the lesson plate. Place the point directly in the middle, having the diagonal lines even. Note the vertical guide line where the point ends. Make one side of the belt lap well over the other.

The turn-over point of the belt must have the appearance of going over the top of the belt, so do not draw this piece even with the top of the belt. The button is in the middle of the point and the diagonal sides are even.

Study the back collar. It curves up at the top, but being very deep it takes a downward curve at the bottom. Note the breaks which show that the collar is going around the neck toward the front.

In drawing the collar with the reveres make the points of the collar opposite each other, also the reveres, and the places where the collar and reveres are joined. Refer to Lessons V and VI for collars.

In drawing the shawl collar, show the thickness of the goods by not connecting the front lines with the back of the collar.

Fig. T is a very simple coat illustrating the principles of how a large coat should fit. The student is expected, however, to draw all kinds of coats, and if he keeps this lesson and all previous ones in mind, there should be no difficulty in rendering all coats satisfactorily.

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