SHIRRING, SCALLOPS, LACINGIn drawing this figure the student must apply the principles of Lesson III (overskirts) and Lesson VI (waist with yoke, short sleeve, and vest), but instead of the yoke and waist proper being sewed directly together, they are joined by a cord, the goods being shirred over it.

You will find that the over-skirt is shirred over a cord in three places, the goods falling free from the lowest cord. The cords cling to the form, while the goods between them puffs slightly, extending past the normal form line.

All lines for the shirring are drawn with quick snappy strokes. Some lines may connect the cords, but most of them reach only part way, the lines from above falling between the lines going up from below. The lines take somewhat the direction of the puff, but do not curve them too much. Note the guide lines for the cording, and the unevenness of the cord where the goods is shirred over it.

If material is shirred without a cord, there will be but one line.

You will notice that the bottom of the skirts arc designated by guide lines, only, the width of the scallop.

All scallops must be the same size, hang straight down, and go in and out of the fullness. This effect may be helped by breaking a scallop at XX. If you place the whole scallop on top of XX, draw but half
a scallop underneath it, and vice versa.

Draw the lacing as shown in the large example. Here, as on the dress, the opening is separated, as in this position the idea can be more readily explained than if the opening were pulled closely together.

Draw all holes opposite each other, then the lacing. Start at the top and run the ribbon through as you would do if you wrere lacing your own dress. Notice how the ribbon comes out of one hole and goes under the edge of the opening and under the next hole on the opposite side, comes out of that hole, etc.

The easiest way to obtain this effect is to draw all the lacing in one direction (the ones on top), then the lacing in the opposite direction, which is underneath.

Draw the guide ‘ines for the cord, throwing one end over the other. The ends hang straight down. Study the reverse curves which fit over these guide lines and form the cord.

Study and draw the part of the full girdle with a frill at the opening, the smocking and the tassel. See how the lines for the tassel curve, showing that it has inside strands as well as the ones drawn.

As an application of this lesson, draw shirred dresses, and also place a scallop on the collar, cuffs, and skirt of a simple dress. Study different shapes of scallops.

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